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APRIL

Star plants


Malus ‘Royalty’
Malus ‘Royalty’
Dicentra spectabilis
Dicentra spectabilis
Euphorbia polychroma
Euphorbia polychroma

Now we are well and truly into spring, in perhaps the most exciting month of the year, as the garden suddenly begins to look green and vibrant, and warmer days gladden the heart of every gardener.

Gardens are now awash with a bright spring display of flowers. All plants seem to start growing really fast this month, with April showers and warmer soil providing ideal growing conditions.

April is a good time to:

April Weather Watch
On the whole, days are warming up but do beware of very cold nights with sharp frosts – these can damage fruit blossom. Clear, warm, balmy weather makes it very tempting to put young plants out now, but slightly tender plants still need daytime protection with cloches.

MAKE AN ALPINE TROUGH

This little sink-style trough is easily made and will fit into a corner of the tiniest garden. At least half the price of shop-bought ones, it will look attractive for many months of the year.

(right) The finished feature, planted with a selection of spreading rock plants and a dwarf conifer

You will need:
Two cardboard boxes, the same shape but with one about 5cm (2in) bigger than the other all round
A “hypertufa’ mix of one part cement, 1 part sharp sand, and 2 parts seived peat-free compost: you need enough, roughly, to fill the smaller box, but overestimate to avoid running short
Wire netting and wirecutters
Wooden pegs or corks to create drainage holes
Bricks to support the mould
Plants used here:
Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’; Sedum spathulifolium ‘Cape Blanco’ and ‘Purpureum’; Lithodora diffusa ‘Heavenly Blue’; Thymus pulegioides ‘Aureus’

Mixing the hypertufa 1. Mix the hypertufa: here 2 shovelfulls each of cement and sand to 4 of seived compost
Adding the water 2. Add water until you have quite a wet mix, about the consistency of porridge. Mix well.
Cutting a sheet of netting to fit the base 3. Cover the base of the larger box with a layer of the mix. Cut a sheet of netting to fit the base, snip out four or five holes (see above), and lay it over the hypertufa.
cutting small lengths of roofing lath to make pegs 4. Cut small lengths of roofing lath to make pegs. Insert them firmly through the mix; they will keep holes through the base clear to provide drainage for the trough.
Spreading another layer of hypertufa mix over the base 5. Spread another layer of hypertufa mix over the base to sandwich the netting. The more rigid “grille”-type netting is easier to use than chicken wire, as it stays flatter.
Roughly patting down and smoothing the base 6. Roughly pat down and smooth the base, brushing away any hypertufa that might impede removal of the peg later on.
Placing the smaller box inside the larger one 7. Place the smaller box inside the larger one. Cut four more oblongs of netting to fit the sides of the box, making them 2.5-5cm smaller each way. It is important that any sharp edges will be completely covered at the top. Set them in the gaps.
filling the sides with hypertufa mix 8. Start to fill the sides with hypertufa mix, putting equal amounts each side of the netting.
tamping the mix well down 9. As you go, tamp the mix well down, again evenly on the inner and outer sides.
supporting the mould on both sides with bricks 10. Once the mould is filled, support it on both sides with bricks, as the hypertufa makes the cardboard damp. Leave it overnight.
removing the bricks and peeling away the cardboard 11. The next day, remove the bricks and peel away the cardboard, but don't try to move the trough. It needs at least a week to fully harden. Only then should you remove the cardboard from the base.
scraping away the corners to give a distressed look 12.Before the hypertufa sets completely, scrape away the corners to give a distressed look, using an old chisel. You can also scrape away any obvious lines left by the cardboard.
Brushing off the worst of the dust with a soft brush 13. Brush off the worst of the dust with a soft brush, and then go over the whole trough with a wire brush. This gives the trough the appearance of weathered stone.
knocking out the pegs to leave the drainage holes open 14. Leave to harden completely for about a week and then, using another peg, knock out the pegs to leave the drainage holes open.
Setting the trough up on bricks to ensure good drainage. 15. Set the trough up on bricks to ensure good drainage. Place crocks in the bottom to cover the drainage wholes, preventing them getting clogged with compost. Fill with an alpine compost mix of equal parts soil, peat-free compost and coarse grit.
Spreading grit or gravel over the surface to retain soil moisture 16. Plant up with plants of your choice. Spread grit or gravel over the surface to retain soil moisture and to prevent the plants being splashed with soil.